The secret of French fruit and vegetables: a story of craft, passion and terroir

“I’m the son and grandson of greengrocers. I grew up among market stalls, shaped by the seasons and their flavours,” says Éric Fabre. From a young age, he was steeped in the plant world – the peppery scent of bell peppers, the vibrant reds of tomatoes, the earthy textures of carrots still damp from the ground. In 1989, he naturally took over the family business. But his vision went beyond simply running a company – he wanted to elevate his craft, and push it further.  

Years of dedication eventually led him to earn the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) title in his field. “It’s not just an award – it’s a real, meaningful qualification. It's a reward for precision, hard work, and passion. Of course it brings great pride, but also responsibility. It’s a tribute to the work of my father and grandfather. ” 

Deep respect for the natural chain of life 

For Éric Fabre, the word “respect” is a common theme. Respect for the product, the seasons, the growers, and the customer. For him, being a greengrocer means acting as a link between land and plate – a kind of messenger. “You need to be humble when you’re dealing with what nature gives us. You have to honour the skills you’ve inherited, understand the value of the farmer’s labour, and share with the customer everything the product has to say. ” 

Because the product really does speak – through its colour, its texture, its smell. When Éric chooses a fruit or vegetable, he does so with all his senses. “A vegetable needs to be turgescent and firm –that’s how you know it's fresh. A carrot, for example, with a vibrant green top, that’s a good indicator. With melons, I look at the stem: if it’s cracked, with a little drop of juice, that usually means it’s sweet and ripe.”

An ode to seasonality 

For this MOF, the seasons act as a sort of compass. That’s not just common sense, it’s poetically right too. “Respecting the seasons means respecting the rhythmic cycles of nature. In season, fruits and vegetables reach their full potential – flavour, nutritional value, ripeness. It’s better all round – for taste, for the environment, and for your budget.”  

For Éric, these are no mere oft-repeated environmental slogans: this is his lived experience. Rather than sell strawberries in February, he prefers to wait, explain, and offer produce for tasting at just the right time. “I’d rather wait a few more days than sell a fruit that hasn’t hit its peak. Respecting a good product also means respecting the person who buys it.” 

Nature at the tip of his fingers 

As warmer days return, certain fruits and vegetables reappear in shopping baskets as familiar points of reference. Éric sees the strawberry as one of the most powerful. “It’s the first red fruit; the one that heralds the arrival of spring. Its colour, its scent, its sweet-tart flavour… it’s a promise. Biting into a gariguette strawberry is like biting into a memory.” 

And memories are something he has no shortage of. Like pulling carrots from his grandfather’s garden as a child: “I’d rinse them with water from the well and eat them right there. That taste has never left me. A carrot still at earth temperature – juicy and sweet… it was pure emotion.”  

France: a land of exceptional produce 

Éric’s love for produce extends to the full diversity of France’s growing regions. He is quick to name Brittany and its cauliflowers, Île de Ré with its new potatoes, sun-drenched tomatoes from Provence, peppers and chillies from the Basque Country – and the Loire Valley, which he fondly calls “the garden of France.” 

“Each region has its own treasures, shaped by climate, soil, and altitude. France is fortunate to have such rich agricultural variety. And our farmers – often unknown – are artisans in their own right. They adapt, they innovate, and they stay true to their land. ” 

He sees labels such as AOP, IGP, and Label Rouge as much more than just acronyms – they’re assurances of quality, traceability, and care. “They promote living traditions that are being passed down and preserved.” 

Taste as a cultural messenger 

More than a merchant, Éric sees himself as a teacher of taste. He loves to share stories, with each fruit or vegetable having its own to tell. And when speaking to an international audience, his passion is even stronger: “Fruits and vegetables aren’t just food: they’re ambassadors of taste, of terroir, of French culture. They reflect our very way of life. ” 

The summer tomato is one of his favourite examples. “Just rub its stem gently, close your eyes, and breathe in. That green, vegetal scent – it contains a powerful promise. A French tomato at peak season is summer in concentrated form. ” And he continues in the same vein, speaking with equal love of cucumbers, peas, melons, cherries, apricots… everything that shows the strength and richness of the French landscape. 

Better choices, fairer consumption 

Éric firmly believes that choosing a seasonal, well-grown fruit or vegetable is also a vote of care for the environment. “You’re supporting sustainable farming, and protecting biodiversity. And above all, you’re restoring a sense of meaning to what you eat.” 

And that sense is something he wants to share with everyone. When he talks about the joy of sharing a simple vegetable dish, his words become an invitation to slow down: “A sliced tomato, a pinch of salt flakes, a drizzle of olive oil, a few basil leaves… that’s all it takes to create a moment of pleasure, of connection, of tradition. That, too, is the French art of living.”